Tacos, guacamole and no siestas.

The bloody tourists won’t sleep. Too much to do in Tulum, Mexico, the rather pricey town we are staying in with a focus on health retreats that is a long way from our purpose. The bloke at the dive shop rarely gets a siesta these days, just far too many people trying to fill their days. So we’re not wasting any time sleeping either, although my 5am starts have more to do with time zone mix ups than any desire to be a wake early.

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We started on the beach yesterday at sparrow fart, meandering along watching black pelican-looking birds crash into the sea with an enthusiasm that made Australian pelicans look quite lazy. The water is opaque and crystal clear. Glassy. And also full of kelp which washes ashore to the fancy hotel beachfronts. The hotels then employ a small battalion of locals to rake it up and wheelbarrow it off the white sands.
We are staying at one of these lovely hotels with the beach sand at our doorway and an omnipresent breeze that makes hammock time blissful. It’s a real luxury for us as we have just a handful of days here. However, it’s a bit weird. We didn’t book a hotel and our airport cabbie found the place for us. It’s a yoga retreat with plenty of fit young women here to work on their downward dog. When we arrived back with a 24-pack of Coronas yesterday (purchased from a Corona factory), there were some curious stares. But we just marched past the bikini boot camp and found a spot on the sand to sip mojitos.
Our big activity for the day was catching the collectivo, a bus/taxi service that makes things very cheap, to the Xplor, a series of amazing caves that have been turned into a theme park. It was an extraordinary place with a comprehensive set of zip lines that have given me some hefty inner-thigh bruises. The zip flights went through waterfalls and even had a slide that reminded me why I so badly wanted to visit Wet N Wild. There was a all-terrain vehicle activity where you drive through the jungle, over suspension bridges, through large puddles and then down through some of the ancient caves that were formed by a meteorite about 65 million years ago. I imagined us as Indiana Jones adventurers, although that was marred by the incredibly gutless engine on our Polaris. We named her Suzy for her inability to get up hills. At one stage, I thought our mechanic, Perko, might just get out and give the beast a tune up.
We continued through a series of confusing caves with stalactites and stalagmites that got less and less interesting the more we walked. The underground pools in these caves were crystal clear and the whole thing was simply stunning. It was great to see so many people taking in these natural wonders but I couldn’t suppress my concern about how much damage the tourism was doing, and had already done, to the fragile structures.
The most tranquil part was the raft. We were given hand paddles and told to navigate bulky bloody rafts through rather narrow spots. It was tricky with plenty of bumps and I anticipate some chiseled arms soon from the exertion. The atmosphere was tainted only slightly by the continuous flashes of the bloody cameras that left us looking like startled beetles in headlights. The harsh light and direction signs reminded us of our status as lowly tourists, not hardy explorers.
It was a grand day, full of exuberance and contentment at the thought that we were in Mexico and making the most of the sunshine. To top it off we sought more tacos and guacamole. Now, I consider myself a guac connoisseur but the stuff over here is just on another level. The soft tacos on the first night with their delightful soft shell and intriguing spices, left us wondering if we had found our best tacos too early. We are yet to beat those little pockets of joy, but it’s a challenge I will heartily accept.
Today, we’re off fishing. No time for siestas.

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P.S. Apologies for the dearth of photos… More soon.

The thunder buddy.

The clouds have been building all afternoon, pushing the blue sky east, to be replaced with ominous, promising patterns of grey. For most in the west, the first rumbly moans from the sky elicit a cheeky hopeful grin. Imaginations slip into eighth gear (imaginations have unlimited gears) and suddenly it seems probably that the dust bowl could be converted into a gushing flash flood. The excitement is akin to the tension the day before a wedding.

But there is one member of this household who thinks that storms are scarier than zombies or centipedes. Scarier, even, than a praying mantis! Poor Boots has no enthusiasm for storms. At the first minor grumble, he quivers, and trots over on his weary legs, eager to be close.

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As the crescendo rises, and a roar comes from all sides, he stands up, and occasionally falls over in his quest to be as close as possible. By the time the window is rattling, he has two paws on the bed and I am sincerely wishing we had purchased the thing at the supermarket that promised to make a dog’s breath smell less like a dog’s breath.

This is one of the best things about dogs, they’re brutally honest with their emotions. There is no playing around, pretending they’re not scared when a storm threatens to take a roof off. They show affection without any fear of rejection and suffer rejections with just a large exhale and a bit of alone time.

Best of all, is the excitement they show for those horrid dog biscuits that resemble kangaroo droppings. I’d love for it to be socially acceptable for humans to bounce up and down on springs when presented with a selection of curries or a Mexican feast! Instead, I smile politely and pretend it’s not the highlight of the week.

And then there’s the sex. Just see a specimen you like, run up from behind, and, boom, you’re doing it. Everyone is watching, and you feel like the star player at the Australian Open.

Now, I’m not advocating that humans adopt some of these less-than-civilised activities that our four-legged pals take for granted. But let’s have a think about it. Perhaps we could be a bit more open about our fears and joys – you might just find yourself a thunder buddy to share these things with.

Give your relationship a towelling.

Some things in relationships are inevitable. It is certain that any long-term relationship will include an occasional fart. Another certainty is that you’re not going to always enjoy the other’s hobbies, such as football, for instance. There should always be an element of happiness that is inevitable, and a genuine enjoyment of the other’s company. But just as inescapable as this enjoyment is, there is also the expectation that a certain level of romance that exists in the flickering excitement of the first few months of any courtship will change shape as a relationship evolves.

I have been happily enjoying a life of sin, with the best looking live-in lover one could imagine, for more than a year. It’s been more fun than a slip-and-slide party mixed with a talent quest. And I have never been happier.

Of course, along the way our relationship has taken a meandering path that I will optimistically call a natural evolution. The essence of beans that floated around the car on the way home from a trip to visit my folks a few weeks ago is stinking proof that we are comfortable with each other. It is also proof that my father is evil for feeding beans at every chance before a 13-hour car trip!

We banter over washing up – the most hated chore, and the romantic evenings sitting by the river watching the birds are less frequent. I tolerate his love of cats and occasionally he lets me use the remote. We even shower separately!! And we go fishing.

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At times this has led me to undertake the sort of contemplative thought that leaves my partner with a worried look on his face. Too much thinking is frowned upon.

But I have come to recognise that there are much less subtle ways the romance peeks its shy little head up into our existence. My favourite is the towel. It makes my heart sing to step out of the shower and find a fresh towel waiting where the battered, grungy towel had been hanging when I entered the bathroom. There is the bottle of wine at the end of a rough day.

And then there is the day when I come home and the garden has been weeded and the freshly picked vegies are sitting on the bench. Of course, most often I barely see the things that are done for me and continue to hint about much more superficial deeds, such as flowers. Or the bloody washing up.

It’s so easy to pick holes in someone’s behavior when you live such closely entwined lives, but I am learning that the happier option is to search for and wholeheartedly appreciate the simple selfless deeds, the clean towel. Who would have thought a clean linen delivery could bring such happiness?

The joys of creativity and poor hygiene.

On Friday arvo I packed my pink canvas bag full of clothes I wouldn’t wear and headed west, to Bunginderry, a sheep and cattle property that mixes agriculture with art retreats. It’s an ideal location to get the creative juices flowing, with blood red dirt and contrasting luscious splashes of green. Budgerigars flit around with more energy than a toddler at dawn and the landscape inspires thoughts of early pioneering and an Indigenous heritage. It’s simply delightful.
I’m here as part of a Vast Arts regional artist development program. There were a few spaces left in the program when I bluffed my way in a few months ago and it has been an opportunity to map out what I want to achieve from my photography. I’m here with a smattering of talented artists who live in intriguing places, including Mt Leonard, a 1.9million-acre cattle station, and on the wild dog barrier fence in remote South Australia. We all practise art in different ways, including watercolours, pastels, printmaking and, of course, the photographers who work so hard they need a nap every afternoon.
Now, I take my weekends more seriously than a racehorse trainer with his prize gelding and while preparing for the weekend I was initially concerned that there would be little time to wind down after a stressful week in the office. But at the idea of the retreat, I was elated that I would escape the weekend routine and push my comfort zone into something different. I left Quilpie, and the promise of a corker party, for a ripper sunset drive. After 80km, I found a group of ladies sitting round a fire sipping on red wine like it was mothers milk. The weekend was looking good.
We are staying in the most luxurious shearer’s quarters this side of the great divide but I couldn’t shake the camp-fire induced feeling of camping. Instantly I decided that showering would be taken off the agenda for the weekend so that I could completely shake my town-life away.
We progressed inside to a home-grown roast lamb and the sort of get-to-know-you chatter that makes the heart sing. I have never thought of myself as an artist but I felt innately at-home with these ladies, discussing acrylics, canvases, light. I relished hearing their tales of success, of art touching an audience and of tantrum-inducing disasters. I loved their dry humour. After just five minutes, we’re laying into each other with the sort of sarcastic mirth that even my close mates struggle to interpret.
I was lucky to score a room with my mate Lorraine, and we yakked away into the night like excited school kids. She woke me early, at bloody six o’clock, after a night riddled with mid-range snoring and the occasional fart. Although I won’t blame her for the flatulence.
As a burgeoning photographer it’s been extraordinarily valuable to discuss aperture and composition with my colleagues. To shout out, ‘what’s your iso on’ and learn that the settings I was using were way beyond sensible. No wonder my colours were pale red when I was aiming for the sort of bold that stops a pole dancer on their way home from work.
We spent yesterday afternoon testing our lungs on a red sand hill with wind-crafted ripples and sunset light. We have scrambled across dry creek beds and rocky outcrops, with our painters sketching the landscape and photographers searching for the perfect angle. I have been blown away by the interpretations of the striking places we have seen.
We drank wine on the sand hill, before the first car drove away with the esky.
I’ve learned that farts in the tin toilet outside echo to a sound beyond that which is usually humanly possible. And, shockingly, I did not discover that myself. I went without a shower for the weekend and reused my trusty trackpants. From this, I was on the receiving end of words including grungy and smelly. But I didn’t waste any of my creative time, or nap time, in the shower recess.
For my own photography, I’ve discovered that people and animals engage me more than landscapes. I am so proud of this photo I fluked of this very unhappy and exceptionally protective bird.

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Tonight I’ll go back to civilisation, to my own rickety bed, to the first shower in days and, tomorrow, to my job. I will be forever grateful that I had a weekend that was different to all others and that encouraged me to think beyond my existence, to challenge myself to create and pursue loftier, more creative dreams.

Suddenly everyone is gardening.

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Last Wednesday night the crowd were all standing around the fire having a few sneaky weeknight beverages while watching a football game that I have no interest in. Just a small bunch of mates chewing the fat, covering topics of international significance, such as what spices were in the rissoles and were ugg boots better than slippers.
Suddenly, the conversation took a more serious tone.
One of my mates, who is most famous for debauchery, unveiled a hidden talent. “Our broccoli is booming,” he suggested, before launching into a detailed explanation of his tomato plant’s prowess since he staked it. His flatmate chimed in to spruik their success with corn. More productive than a caste of worker ants. He was more excited about that corn than he was about the football, but that’s not surprising because he’s a Queenslander and it has not been a fruitful year.
I took his excited tone as my cue to wax lyrical about my oversized zucchini plant and the snow peas that are sweeter than a honey pot.
Without warning our host came from behind to lament the difficulty he was having with his eggplants. No worries at all with any of the herbs. The basil, in particular, was growing faster than the Channel Country pasture after the rains. But the eggplants were a serious bone of contention. He just wanted a few to fill a few layers of lasagna with the fleshy vegie, but he was having no luck at all with the purple fruit. Without any tact, I began describing the ease I was having with my eggplant bush, fruit was busting from the vine as it thrived on neglect.
So there we all were, standing around the fire comparing stories about our vegie patches.
“Remember when we just used to get drunk,” I asked. “Now we’re just talking about our vegie gardens.”
We all chuckled and sheepishly looked at the fire. Were we finally growing up? Were we boring?
Na, no way. There is something incredibly soul enriching to grow your own vegies. Something peaceful, natural about growing something that nourishes you. And it’s bloody convenient to have a few supplies to fall back on when you miss the supermarket’s small-town opening hours.
It was almost a comforting thought, but rather weird to think a sense of maturity may be developing in the crowd. But then I remembered, I’ve been gardening since I first left home, and there was little maturity at that stage of my life. Why should a love of gardening, growing things to eat and look pretty, why should that be a pleasure limited to older people, as stereotypes often suggest?
I reckon we should get amongst it. Let’s have a few drinks, embrace the debauchery and talk about vegies.

How much filth is too much filth?

We have just one strict rule in our house – never create unnecessary washing up. Most other things, such as indoor plants, grotty toilets, unmopped floors and a hungry dog, are tolerated and almost encouraged. But washing up is an activity more hated than early Sunday morning exercise. I would rather do any other chore than the dishes and my live-in handyman/lover/gardener has an even greater hatred of the soggy chore. 

It’s not uncommon to see our sparkly modern benchtop glistening with days-old fragments of rice and toast crumbs while piles of dishes and soaking pots are haphazardly strewn across our stainless steel washing space. Perhaps my penchant for cooking with every dish in the cupboard is not helpful.

Usually this fills me with a sense of satisfaction – surely I am just too busy with my stimulating and interesting life to bother with mundane chores. Or, simply put, I am lazy. In any case, recently I have started to think that things might be getting out of hand. I began to prepare some leftover Mexican food for my lunch earlier this week and needed some fresh guac. I absent-mindedly picked up a fork off the bench and began mashing the avo in it’s shell. Using a bowl would have defied the only house rule we have. Next I picked up the knife that was conveniently placed next to the fork and sliced up some garlic to ensure I had peachy breath for the afternoon. This is when I realised just how much of a grott I had become. The bloody fork was the same fork I had used the night before to mash the avocado and the knife was the tomato chopper. A deft lick of the guac the previous night was apparently all the cleaning I needed. And I still wonder if the noises at night might be mice…

Now, I don’t want you to get the wrong idea about my living conditions. Our dirty clothes basket often borders on empty while the clothes line is nearly always full. Washing is my favourite chore – when the clothes are really greasy it can be as good as a beer at the beach, but with a greater sense of purpose, and in our new indoor laundry there’s very little chance of sunburn.

Vacuuming is another favourite chore. Running that sucker around is certainly better than doing an uncooperative crossword or playing any sort of team sport. So, despite our ageing, moulting dog insisting on a rigorous shake any time I feel charitable enough to open the door for him, we have a pretty clean floor area.  Unfortunately Ben likes these chores too, so even though the rug is hair-free once a week and our clothes smell of a pine forest, the mop has only been touched once since we moved in six months ago and the sink provides a steady point of disharmony in our domestic relationship.

Living in filth is an interesting idea, especially seeing just how far some people can take it. Cleanliness standards are definitely not universal, they’re perhaps even more varied than religious perspectives or body types.

I’m still trying to figure out where I draw the line. In my share-housing days I always defined my attitude to cleanliness by the people I lived with. I was certainly cleaner than Michelle who still wonders which side of a scrubbing brush to use, but I was a pig compared to Aleisha, who would even put the chairs on top of the kitchen table when she mopped. 

Ideally, I like to think I’d be the cool-but-cleanly person in the middle. Obviously not if I’m mashing avo with spoon that’s been cleaned by saliva. But who I am to judge, perhaps that’s normal and I’ve been wasting my time and angst at the sink.

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The eagle chase

The eagle chase

I’ve been scouring the western skies for eagles for months, with a perfect shot in my mind’s eye. Alas, it hasn’t translated to the lens. This is my best effort yet. Taken just outside Windorah, we stopped to watch this beastie feasting on a roadside carcass. He took off and decided to play with the peaceful bird in more familiar terrain.
The quest continues…

The new fashion trend rocking the outback.

I’d like to consider my latest fashion trend an innovation, but I’m sure people have been turning their clothes back to front since the first hessian sack was turned into a modesty vest. Still, I like to think the backwards-shirt has been taken to new heights in Quilpie recently. The source is obvious, it stems from my comprehensive lack of coordination and motor skills when taking food from the plate to the mouth. New borns make less mess while eating tacos.

The backwards-shirt thing is yet to officially become a trend, as I’m not certain there is anyone else publicising their ingenious tricks to get around stained white shirts. That’s why I’m writing this. I reckon people should feel comfortable to come forward with their eating and wearing faux pas. Tell the world you had an incident that haunts you through your clothes. It’s strangely liberating.

For instance, today as I strolled into the kitchen to deliver some morning greetings the cook began scrutinising my dress with the level of attention I would usually dedicate to checking dubious bread for mould. No, I replied to her stare, this dress is the right way on. There is a big strip down the back of that dress, actually, so I’ll have to be careful.

The best part about this trend, or soon-to-be trend, is that it can get you out of sticky situations. For example, when you arrive at work and spill coffee down the front, instead of looking like a vertical dishcloth you can sneak away and pretend the shirt is fresh off the line. Smooth.

On Monday I had to travel away for work. I carefully carted my favourite work shirt away on a hanger, eager to impress the boss with my classy hand-me-downs. Of course, when I began ironing the shirt I noticed the large stain below the right breast. Frustratingly, I realised the last time I donned the shirt I had employed the backwards trick due to the same bloody stain. Ahhh, nothing like a memory that offers less use than an egg carton in a pen full of roosters. Nevermind, I turned the white blouse round the other way and looked for a necklace to hide the tag mark. And then on Monday morning my mouth ran away with the spoon and I couldn’t help but tell my boss about my tricky wardrobe shenanigans. I think it brought us closer together. A real team building moment.

I’m sure other people have different ways to cope with stained shirts. My mother adopts the most un-original remedy – pre-wash stain remover. Others probably send their soiled garb to the guilt-free tip, the thrift shop.

I’ll continue to swap my shirts and dresses around. Would you do the same? Would you tell anyone?

The best intentions.

I never intended to be dancing around the kitchen, swilling from a half-empty bottle of sauvignon blanc on a Monday night. Not tonight, anyway.

It was only a few hours ago I was giving the decadent side of my personality a severe talking to. I even wrote down the chastising monologue. “You will transform your body,” I wrote in a quiet moment at work today. “Stop loitering around being a big fatty, stop being so complacent!”

It was a stern letter indeed, full of promise and determination.

And then I set in motion a chain of events more predictable than a Mills and Boon novel. 

Ben picked me up and I had my eye on a workout. We went down to Brendo’s to fill my bike tyres with air – a crucial element to the extreme fitness regime I was embarking upon. As we drove I told Ben of my grand ambitions about completing the first five minutes of a touch footie game without stalling for  breath, hands on knees. I wanted to be fit enough to run a half marathon again.

I should have known what would happen once we rolled my bike into that tyre shop. The inevitable gold can would be posted into my hand and I would show the sort of reluctance a shopaholic shows when presented with a limit-free credit card.

So, here we are, dancing around the loungeroom with a bottle of wine on a school night and I haven’t even bothered with a glass. Perhaps the sensation is even more exhilarating because it was deemed off limits just hours ago. 

But the real question pops up soon enough. How much do you really want that sexy body? And would I be willing to sacrifice the beer-swilling afternoons of decadence to get it. 

That’s the real moment when my carefree side needs a few strict words from the buzz-kill side of my brain. Luckily that nasty side was dulled by an amber liquid.

Who would trade such a liberated, happy afternoon for a regime designed to chase a shadow, an illusion of happiness.

I’d rather have the real thing – for today, anyway